Thursday, August 21, 2014

Wonder Woman Sword Part III

I found that a careless sponging paint job actually looked more rugged than a carefully gradient paint job.  I tried really carefully to create a gradient from the silver to the black (base) paint for the silver.  It took a lot of time and stress.  Than for the gold on black (base) paint, I was fed up and randomly jabbed my sponge in the correct areas ....  Funny how I love the gold part better.  It looks a lot like the scratchy sketch lines from a *some* comic artist styles. (A style I love)

Monday, August 18, 2014

Wonder Woman Sword Part II

I'm retrying some of Kamui Cosplay's painting techniques.  One in which you paint the base colour of your prop what you want the burnished colours to be.  I hadn't liked this technique in the last because it waste a lot of paint, and I can find I can achieve the same outcome with the opposite technique of applying the burnished colour afterwards.  I will admit, but made it much easier to ensure that the burnished colour are within the tiny crevices of all of the seams.  

I think I need to continue practicing between both painting orders to see which one I really prefer.  

This is the first time I'm doing the burnished gradient really not evenly.  Oddly I really like it, although I hated it while making it .... WHY ISN"T IS STRAIGHT ... takes a step back to look at it, Wow it's really cool :) ~Happy accident~

Saturday, August 16, 2014

Wonder Woman Sword Part I

I've been rather stuck on this piece for a while.  Though I'm having fun learning to work with Worbla, my blade was such an issue.  I didn't want to make it out of Worbla cause that honestly would cost a lot of money for a flat sheet of plastic, so I resorted to insulation foam (found in many of our other large props).  I tried twice, resulting in blades that were too thick, too wide, just something I hated ...

Until yesterday when I came home to find that boyfriend had a package and left the box in our recycling stash.  Cardboard to save the day.  It's thin, flat, and sturdy when layered.  I can even create that angular middle and allow the blade edges to be thin (and now flake off when hitting someone with a foam piece).

So one AneComi Wonder Woman sword made from

1. Worbla and Craft Foam for the details
2. PVC for the Handle 
and added dimention and strengh within the blade
3. Cardboard for the blade

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Worbla Tip: Tape

Simple Tip:  
Ever have your Foam or Worbla pieces fly away because of the wind from your heat gun?  Secure your Foam to your working surface with some office tape.  Or use it to keep those toothpicks steady, nobody will ever know it's been sandwhich inside.

What's this about Toothpicks? worbla-tips-tooth-picks

Friday, July 18, 2014

Worbla Tips: Tooth Picks

Simple Tip:  Toothpicks can be used to add dimensional design without using up extra Worbla.  Besides have you ever tried creating a straight line with a ball of warm Worbla?

Thursday, June 12, 2014

Ruffled Diaper Cover

Sometimes I find a pattern on sale that I can't resist. I mean, look at this adorable ruffled diaper cover! Little Lolo needs this.

I used some fabric and lace remnants I inherited from my grandmother's stash and put this together while Lolo was napping. In all I think this took about foir hours at a very leisurely pace. I added my own trim and front pockets but otherwise stuck to the pattern (view A).

For a tip on gathering fabric to make ruffles, check out my quick video on Instagram here:

Thursday, May 15, 2014

Update a mask to a new species

Ever have a hard time finding just what you want, but something very similar?

I had a friend who wanted a Zebra mask but had a hard time finding one that looked nice.  But he did find a donkey mask he like.

He asked me to paint it to become a Zebra for him

The mask scared me a bit, but I was able to do the job with some acrylic paints.

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Anime Review: GA Geijutsuka Art Design Class

GA is a started off as a 4 panel comic strip about students in an Art school.  They've translated it into an anime of just mini stories of their simple adventures of learning about art.  The style is much like Lucky Star in which you can jump in and out at any moment and it gives you a little smile on the cuteness.

Besides the cuteness, what I like about the show is that you can actually learn a lot about art.  They throw in tons of little art tidbits as you watch the students learn and practice art in their courses.  They learn -> Audience learns.

On the first episode alone I learned about
- Pictogram vs an Monogram
- Paints that Blend rather than Layer
- How to make Eraser Puddy

Monday, April 28, 2014

Cosplay Puffy Pants

My friend (the one in the Wartortle outfit in the picture below) asked me.  How did you get/keep your pants to puffy.  

 Time for some cosplay magic! Well first you need to start with some Hammer Pants.  The pant legs aren't straight, nor flared. Instead it's pretty much a silly bubble.

Oh look? some left over tulle, several yards in fact.  Wrap several layers into a loose circle and tie it off with (oh look some leftover) ribbon.  

Next slip in one of these bundles in each pant leg/sleeve.  What's great is tulle and ribbon is completely machine washable, and completely squish-able into boxes for storage.  Or repack-able into plushie stuffing for future projects.

Thank you Cowslip for such amazing Pokemon Gijinka Cosplay designs.
And DTJAAAM for this wonderful picture

Tuesday, March 18, 2014

Minion Goggles

As you can see I have a base pillow thing that will soon become my Minion (Despicable Me). Along with some spare parts of all stuff.  
  • Blank Minion Body
  • Stretchy Black Elastic
  • Mason Jar Lids (2x)
  • White Eyes, using white fleece
  • Black Pupils, using wood circle pieces that are painted black

Using the Mason Jar bases I am able to make perfect cirles for the eyes

These wood blocks were suppose to be pendants, an unfinished project that is now re purposed for the pupils.

Measuring the goggle headband right on Dave (Minion's name is Dave)

Glue the headband to the mason jar lids

Using the Mason jar rings to make the goggle frames and we have MINION GOGGLES

Friday, March 14, 2014

Worbla Armor - Embossed Technique

 Here's a sneak preview of the Diablo III Barbarian Tier 5 armor I am building. All of these pieces were made using a thermoplastic called Worbla.

One reason you might use Worbla instead of Wonderflex to create your cosplay armor is in the unique ways that you can manipulate Worbla.

Here's how I create a embossed look on Worbla armor. This technique is more cost-effective than layering extra Worbla on top. Instead, you are layering your less-expensive (and easier-to-cut) craft foam.
You need:
Sheets of craft foam (in two contrasting colors)
Worbla (available from or
Heat Gun
A pointy wooden tool
Sharpie for drawing your design
Good scissors
Elmer’s glue
A surface to work on that the Worbla will not stick to (I use a piece of glass shelving from IKEA)

First, cut out your design in craft foam and glue it to your craft foam pattern piece. Then layer Worbla over the craft foam and use a pointed wooden tool to press the thermoplastic down around the edges of the design. Let’s see an example:
This is going to be a plate that wraps around the outside of my upper arm.
Here I layered my design in green foam over yellow. The yellow will become my pattern piece for an upper-arm plate.
First I heated a piece of Worbla, then stuck the pattern piece on it with the green design side against the shiny side of the Worbla sheet.
Then I flipped it over.
Here you can see that it helps to use contrasting craft foam colors because you can see the darker green design through the plastic.
Next, I used the pointy tool to press the heated Worbla down around the design shapes and get nice, smooth edges.
The Worbla cools and hardens pretty quickly so I heated and worked on one quadrant of the piece at a time.
After finishing the relief, I heated a second piece of Worbla and stuck it to the back of the craft foam. Then I pressed the edges together to seal in the craft foam (sandwich!) and trimmed the excess.
Save your Worbla scraps, you can heat them up and use them for decorations, like claws and scrollwork!
Lastly I heated up the whole piece and curve it into shape around my upper arm, then let it cool.
Here is the completed piece after adding the spike and painting it.
In this last image you can see the hand plate on which I used both the craft foam relief technique and also layered strips of Worbla for the edge details. Here it is easy to see the visual difference you get – with the relief technique you will have smooth, rounded edges, and with the layering technique you will have sharp edges., which looks great for border outlines.
Did you know? Worbla (or "Worbla's Finest Art") is made from renewable natural raw materials is also known as Rhenoflex RX 5050 which was originally engineered by a German company for the purpose of industrial shoe-making. You can buy it in the U.S. from or

Tuesday, March 11, 2014

Softening Crafting Leather

Leather found at craft stores isn't high quality, rather think, and minimally treated. If you ever find it in an misbent shape or curly from being wound on a spool, fear not, it's quite easy to fix.

I purchased a spool of leather cord for some necklaces, but they came out with this intense curl which was hard to straighten.

Didn't think you can put it in hot water?  Well if it's not fancy treated, you actually can.  I soaked the leather in hot water, a treatment also used to soften the leather before stamping, a method I learned from some real CowBoys!

Hang to dry.  But be careful of the position in which it dries, it will keep it's shape as well.  My ending strands ended up with a fold in the middle, luckily I didn't mind because that's where my pendant for my necklace is going to sit anyways.

TaDa, from Curly to Straight (ish)

Friday, March 7, 2014

Wonderflex Armor

Thermoplastics are all the rage for cosplayers in the convention circuit right now. You may have even heard of some these fun names: "Friendly Plastic", "Wonderflex", and "Worbla". But how do they work? What's the difference between Worbla and Wonderflex? And how do you even start using something like this?

Let's start with a brief overview of Wonderflex and how you might use it in your costume-making, using an example. Here is a very simple piece of armor I made out of Wonderflex, it is a back plate (quite literally a plate you wear on your back):

So how do you even begin to make something like this? Well, if you know how to use scissors, Sharpies, a hair dryer, a paintbrush, and a ruler, then you have all of the skills you need!

Wonderflex starts in a rolled-up sheet. When you heat it up you can bend it into shape, then cool it fast (dunk it under cold water) and it will harden and hold its shape. It also sticks to itself so you don't need to use a glue gun.

You can form structure of your armor piece by sandwiching a piece of craft foam between two pieces of Wonderflex (this is the same process for Worbla armor). Start by creating a pattern on butcher paper, then trace that pattern onto sheets of craft foam. Then trace each piece of foam onto Wonderflex (twice), leaving about 1/4" extra around the edge (like a "seam allowance" if this was fabric). Heat up both pieces of Wonderflex with your heat gun until they are all soft and floppy, then sandwich the craft foam between the Wonderflex. You can fold the excess edges over to the back side of the armor piece and press them down. Mold it into the curved shape you want by pressing it against your bold, then cool it quickly under cold water.

After you have built the piece, you can prime it and paint it. In the images above, you can see how I primed it with gesso and wood glue. Then I sprayed on a black primer and silver spray paint. Then I did a black wash and dry brush with black acrylic paint. Lastly, I added white line details for highlights to give it some pop and character.

Wonderflex is a little cheaper than Worbla, but in my opinion it is more difficult to work with (not as forgiving). With Worbla, you can use all of your scraps by melting them down and molding them like hot clay - you can't do that with Wonderflex. Worbla stretches and can be molded into bra cups, but Wonderflex can't stretch much because it has a fabric structure. Wonderflex is slightly stronger in a single or double-layer though because of that fabric structure. It's also smoother in texture than Worbla.

So these are my two recommendations. Use Wonderflex for:
- straps/loops for affixing D-rings to thermoplastic armor (recommend using 2 layers)
- large structures that require a lot of plastic which you want to do as cheaply as possible (like the armor piece above)
- thin, delicate items made with a single flexed sheet, like custom masks.

Stayed tuned for Worbla armor!

Where can you get Wonderflex? I bought mine at

Tuesday, March 4, 2014

GeorgeTown Trailer Park Mall

I came across his really unique scene I had to share with folks. 

  In Georgetown (Seattle neighborhood) there is this Trailer Park Mall. 

Welcome to the stores, they sell either antiques or art work.

Look she turned the drivers cabin into an office space. 

If you want to find out more, they have a website

Tuesday, January 7, 2014

Clothing Pattern

A few years ago I got boyfriend a pair of Stewie Vader PJ pants.  Tee Hee Hee, they were more ofr me than him.  This year I found an awesome print at the fabric store.  BIG BANG THEORY SUPER HEROS!!!!!

I've decided to make him new pajama pants for Christmas.  I can't measure him, and I"m too lazy to get a pattern from the store.  What to do?  Let's steal his pants and use them to copy a pattern and cut out the fabric just as is.